When my granddaughter Ellie churned her first batch of homemade ice cream this week, I couldn’t help but think of my grandfather, Ancil Winger, and the magic that poured from his creamery decades ago. Family stories tell how his ice cream was served to the troops training for the atomic bomb mission, cold comfort in a time of tension. As a child, I remember visiting the factory, riding the frightening pull freight elevator to watch in awe as thick, velvety cream transformed into something joyous. We would eat chocolate-covered peanuts and a small cup of vanilla ice cream with a wooden spoon.

Today, the tradition continues in new and tender ways. My son reads Ice Cream Face to his little ones and me at bedtime. Clementine, wide-eyed and full of wonder, tells me about her adventure with the neighborhood ice cream truck. Just before the Fourth of July, the girls enjoy Tillamook Ice Cream, a family beach tradition. These may be small moments, but they echo a legacy.

From military mess halls to sticky-fingered summer afternoons, ice cream has always been more than a treat in our family; it is a taste of family history that ties us together. One scoop at a time, we keep Ancil’s spirit alive.

Ancil Winger’s Ice Cream

Ancil Winger (paternal grandfather) lived a life marked by faith, family, and service. Born October 4, 1915, in Preston, Idaho, he was the son of Perry Manford (paternal great-grandfather) and Chole Ann Dixon Winger (paternal great-grandmother).

Young Ancil

Ancil states, “my father worked on the police department at night. Father was a good carpenter and he built a nice home for the family in Preston on a five acre farm. The family moved in when I was one year old. The home was equipped with plumbing and electric lights. I remember my father would come home in the morning and I would climb upon his knee while he ate his breakfast. I was four years old when Father died. He died of a ruptured appendix on June 15, 1920.” [f]

When Grandpa Ancil was just thirteen years old, he left home to work for a farmer named Clarence Talbert. He lived with the Talbert family, rose early to do chores, and attended school right alongside their children. Life on the farm was not easy, but Ancil was dependable. Later, he worked for another farmer, Harold Johnson. His days were tending to the animals, milking the cows by hand, and caring for the plants in every season. It built the strength and character we all remember in him.

Ancil Goes to College

“When I finished high school in 1935, I had earned a scholarship from the U.P. Railroad. I went to the University of Idaho in Moscow, Idaho. To help stretch the money, I hitched hiked [sic] to Moscow to go to school. It took me three days to make the trip. One time, I picked up a stranger and we hooked on a freight train, in the dark, at Weiser, Idaho. It was that evening that I learned that it never pays to gamble. I got with the wrong people and I lost almost all of my money. I only had thirty-five cents left. As a result, I went hungry for awhile.[sic]”[f]

Ancil Winger’s Ice Cream- For World War II Soldiers

His first job after college was with Arden Dairy, where he worked for two years. He was deferred from enlistment in World War II, because he was working in food. Ice cream became a necessary treat during the war. There was a ban on liquor for the troops on the ships; ice cream was the replacement. Ice cream shops floated in the water. This boosted morale.

During that time, he met the love of his life at a local dance. Their connection was instant, and they quickly fell deeply in love. Their engagement came soon after, a testament to their strong bond and shared dedication. As they were making plans for their future together, an unexpected change shifted the course of their lives.

Sudden Changes

Ancil got a job offer with Meadow Gold Dairy in Provo, UT. He quickly took the train to Pocatello. He was there to take Bernice (paternal grandmother) to Provo, UT. A 2^nd stop was Prescott, ID, for his mother. They stopped in Logan to get the marriage license. The 3^rd stop was in Salt Lake City, UT. They married on April 10, 1940, in the Salt Lake LDS Temple. Chloe was the witness to their marriage. (great-grandmother) [g] Together, they had three children: Dennis Ray, Larry Dean, and Keith A. Winger.

Meadow Gold provided well for my grandfather, Ancil. His success led to promotions that required the family to relocate, including a move to Hawaii. This is a tough opportunity for the family. They returned to the States 6 months later. He became the plant manager in Pocatello, ID. He received various awards for his ice cream.[g] He retired in 1978 from the Meadow Gold plant in Pocatello, ID. He continued as a consultant with Meadow Gold until 1984.

Ice Cream Retirement

They moved to Salt Lake City to care for their son, Keith’s M.S., and be closer to Dennis and Larry. He took care of his wife. She had several illnesses that required help. Keith and Bernice both passed within 20 days of each other in 1992.

Grandpa Ancil’s dedication to the gospel of Jesus Christ was unparalleled. He served faithfully in many bishoprics, offering marriage counseling, organizing welfare efforts, and raising funds for church buildings and programs. At one point, there was no bishop’s office available, so he opened his home for interviews. My dad remembers sitting with other members, watching TV in the living room while they waited for their turn. [d] Grandpa Ancil served in the Church in some capacity his entire life, a quiet, steady pillar of faith and service.

He would often say to me, “You are my mother, you remind me so much of her.” I was born on October 19, her birthday, just eleven months after she passed away.

He passed away on February 22, 2006.

Ancestor Edmund Durfee, Mormon Martyr

Edmund Durfee (paternal 4th great-grandfather) was born on October 3, 1788, in Tiverton—a small coastal town in the late 1700s known for its farming, fishing, and shipbuilding. Many families in the area, including the Durfees, were part of the colonial and early American fabric since 1660 when Thomas Durfee immigrated to America from England.

Marriage and Family

He met Magdalena Pickle and they married in 1810. They settled in Montgomery, New York. The 6 children were born here. In 1822, the family moved to Amboy, New York. He bought some land, built a home, and had a wonderful garden filled with maple trees. The 6 more children were born here.

The family moved west to Ohio, selling their home in Amboy, in 1830. Here was baptized into the church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in 1831. In December of that year, he left for a mission for the church. He moved his family to Far West, Missouri. They were excited to join the saints. The dream was temple work and being eternally sealed together. Here, the temple site was dedicated, but never completed.

Expulsion of the Church Members

They moved once again in 1835 to Kirkland, Ohio. The Kirkland temple was completed, and Edmund was one of the few who placed the cornerstone. The last child, Nephi, was born here. They moved from Ohio as tensions rose around Mormons.

Therefore, they settled in Caldwell, Missouri. This was a dedicated county for the LDS church members. Tension grew when the church members went to vote. The governor soon ordered the expulsion of the church members.

They were driven out by violent mobs who invaded their homes, committed atrocities against women, and killed 17 men. All weapons—even household items like kitchen knives—were confiscated. Fearing for their lives and with no means to defend themselves, they fled in a state of panic.

Peaceful Living in Yelrom, IL

Therefore, in November 1838, Edmund moved to Yelrom, IL. Soon they enjoyed peaceful living and their religion for a few years. President Joseph Smith was martyred in 1844, bringing new uprisings and tensions between local communities and church members.

Murdered for A Gallon of Whiskey

“In September 1845, mobs ransacked and burned his home, barn, and grain, forcing him to escape with his family to nearby Nauvoo. A month later, Edmund joined other displaced Mormons to recover their crops in Morley’s Settlement.
The property of Solomon Hancock became the central location for that effort. Sometime near midnight on November 15, 1845, a mob set fire to one of Hancock’s haystacks. Edmund and others rushed out to fight the fire and save a nearby barn from burning. A whistle was heard and the ambush began. The mobsters emerged from the darkness and began firing. Edmund was shot and immediately died.
Apparently, the ambush was a form of sport for the mobsters; a gallon of whiskey was awarded to the first one who could kill a Mormon. After Edmund fell, the attackers melted back into the darkness of the night.”[h]

This family would suffer another loss when their mother passed May 17, 1850, at Council Bluffs, waiting to walk to Utah.[i]

Durfee’s Maternal and Paternal Connection

Ida Pauline Nicholas (My 2nd maternal great-grandaunt) married Henry Dennison Durfee. The connections to Ida are: William Jones (2nd maternal great-grandfather on my grandmother’s side) married Ida’s sister, Mary Ann Nicholas. George Ward (2^nd maternal great-uncle on my grandfather’s side) married Ida’s sister, Eunice Alice Nicholas. On my paternal side, Edmund (paternal 4^th great-grandfather) and his daughter Dolly Durfee (paternal 3^rd great-grandmother) connect the paternal side. The maternal and paternal families are related through Thomas Durfee (9^th paternal Great-grandfather).

All Roads To Thomas Durfee

Thomas was born in 1643 in Exeter, Devonshire, England. Immigrating to America, settling in Rhode Island as an indentured servant. He is contracted with Peter Tallsman. He has several run-ins with the law. One incident, “he was convicted of a breach of contract with his employer, Peter Tallman, and, later that year, of participating in a scandalous relationship with Ann Hill Tallman, a woman 10 years his senior and the wife of his employer.” [e]

Ann (9th paternal great-grandmother) refused to return to her husband, Peter Tallman, “he was known to be a disagreeable and volatile man. When Ann told the court that she would rather die than return to her husband, the court granted Peter Tallman a bill of divorce.”[e]

Ann and Thomas live in a common-law marriage and have 5 more children; Peter and his 2nd wife raised their first child. “Thomas and Ann were convicted of fornication and were sentenced to either lashes with a whip or a monetary fine. Thomas paid the fines.”[e] He was admitted a freeman of the town of Portsmouth, I.I., May 6, 1673.

A Man of Honor: Thomas Durfee

Above all, he became a man of honor and nobility in the community; Thomas was the town deputy. The Durfees were highly respected in the early colonies of Rhode Island and Massachusetts. “Numerous of Thomas and Ann’s descendants fought in the Revolutionary War, one of whom, Col. Joseph Durfee, was an officer in the Continental Army. Joseph served under General George Washington in battles against British General William Howe. Over the years, Durfee served on various town councils and in the state legislature. Two were prominent judges, including one who served on the Rhode Island State Supreme Court.”[l]

Thomas Marries

On August 2, 1698, it is mentioned that Thomas has a wife, Deliverance Tripp. They had 2 daughters. Thomas passed on July 12, 1712. His will stated, “To wife Deliverance, and two daughters, rest of land; to wife, all movable estate. A Negro slave called Jack for life and at her death value of said slave shall be equally divided between 2 daughters.”[j]

“It was a common practice for slaves to adopt the surname of their owners, hence Jack was known as Jack Durfee. Wills and estates inventories of early residents list slaves, bequeathed to the heirs of the deceased, along with other property. Slavery was abolished in Rhode Island in 1783.”[k] Rhode Island had the highest proportion of slaveholding households in New England. [chatGPT] Today, this term is considered outdated and offensive. We include it here only as a historical reference while acknowledging Jack’s full humanity and the injustices.

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Ruth’s Ice Cream

Ruth loved ice cream—it was always a special treat in a cone when we visited. This homemade recipe captures the sweetness of those summer evenings and the joy she shared in every scoop.

Course Dessert

Cuisine American

Keyword dessert, family recipe, ice cream, Vanilla ice cream

Prep Time 3 hours hours

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Servings 8

Equipment

• 1 Ice Cream Attachment for KitchenAid Stand
• 1 Old Fashioned Soft Serve Ice Cream Machine

Ingredients

• 4 Eggs beaten light and fluffy
• 2 Cups sugar
• ¼ tsp. salt
• 3 Cups heavy whipping cream do not whip
• 1 TBSP Vanilla white vanilla is a good option
• 2 QRTS 8 cups Whole Milk

Instructions

• Beat eggs until very well. Light.
• Gradually add sugar and salt. Beat the mixture well.
• Then add heavy cream and vanilla. Do not whip the cream before adding.
• Add milk last.
• Mix well. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours.
• Using a dasher (an addition to a Kitchen Aid mixer or ice cream maker, follow the manufacturer’s directions.
• You may add additions after 15 minutes.
• Freeze the ice cream 2 ½ hours before serving.

Video

Tracy General Store, Almo, Idaho

At the heart of Almo, Idaho, stands the Tracy General Store, where a cherished tradition lives on—homemade ice cream, made in small batches right on site. Serving ice cream is more than a product; it is part of the Durfees’ legacy of hospitality. Reviews highlight homemade scoops as the store’s standout attraction.

Whether it is vanilla custard-style, chocolate, or seasonal fruit swirls, each batch connects visitors to generations past, when treats were crafted, not processed; shared, not shelved. It is more than dessert—it is heritage you can hold in a cone.

The Tracy General Store is one of the oldest continuously operating general stores in the United States. Located in Almo, residents have relied on the old-timey store since it opened in 1894[c]. A store visited often by Grandma Ruth and Grandpa Lawrence. This ia a stop for a snack and ice cream when visiting Almo for funerals.

Longtime resident Jake Bruesch recalled in a 1974 interview that, “circa 1920 Albert Tracy brought in a herd of Wisconsin cows, Holstein cows, . . . and a bunch of us bought ’em — five or ten or fifteen each . . . and started to milk ’em and bought separators and separated milk and sold the cream for a good many years.”[a].

The current owners, Kent and Janis Durfee; have continued the ice cream tradition with vanilla, chocolate, and the occasional seasonal flavors.

Vanilla Bean History

“The vanilla plant was flourishing in Mexico, and by the late 18th century, a few plants were sent to Paris, London, Europe and Asia, in hopes of producing the bean in other areas. Although the vine would grow and flower, it would not produce any beans. French colonists brought vanilla beans to Réunion around 1820.

Beaumont had been teaching young Edmond how to tend to the various plants on his estate. He taught him how to hand-pollinate a watermelon plant. Beaumont had previously planted vanilla beans, and had just one vine growing for over twenty years, but was also unable to produce any beans on the vine. Young Edmond began to study the plant and made a discovery. He carefully probed the plant and found the part of the flower that produced the pollen. Edmond then discovered the stigma, the part of the plant that needed to be dusted with the pollen to produce the bean. He used a blade of grass to separate the two flaps and properly fertilized the plant.

Shortly afterwards, while walking through the gardens, Beaumont noticed two packs of vanilla beans flourishing on the vine and was astonished when young Edmond told him that he was responsible for the pollination.”[m] Edmond was 12 when he made this discovery. He would teach other plantations on pollination. He was awarded his freedom. He was never paid for his discovery, he did outreach the govenor regarding payment, but never received a response.

Vanilla Ice Cream and Segregation

In the Jim Crow era (late 1800s–mid 1900s), racial segregation laws extended beyond schools, transportation, and public facilities — they often shaped access to leisure, dining, and even specific foods.

Southern social customs forbade Black people from being served vanilla ice cream, except on Independence Day (July 4th).

• On other days, they might be limited to chocolate or fruit flavors instead.
• This wasn’t a formal law everywhere, but rather a widespread racial custom and form of humiliation.

The restriction was symbolic — vanilla was associated with purity and whiteness, and denying it to Black people reinforced racist social hierarchies. [[chatGPT]

“People in Stamps used to say that the whites in our town were so prejudiced that a Negro couldn’t buy vanilla ice cream except on the Fourth of July.”[n]

Ice Cream Through History

• 200 BCE: China early versions of frozen desserts were made from a mixture of milk and rice packed in snow.
• 800-1300 AD: The Arab world introduced milk-based frozen desserts, including early forms of sherbet.
• 1686: England, ice cream was served at royal banquets. “Icy creams” became fashionable among the elite.
• 1744: USA ice cream came to America. George Washington and Thomas Jefferson were fans; Jefferson had an 18-step vanilla recipe.
• 1843: Nancy Johnson (USA) patented the hand-cranked ice cream freezer — democratizing ice cream for home use.
• 1850: On July 4, 1850, President Taylor attended Independence Day festivities at the Washington Monument grounds. He reportedly consumed:
  • Chilled milk
  • Iced water
  • Fresh fruits, possibly cherries
  • A large quantity of ice cream

He returned to the White House and soon fell seriously ill with severe stomach cramps, vomiting, and diarrhea. He passed away five days later. Ice Cream took the blame, but there was no cause of death.

Ice Cream Food Facts

• Lait – Milk
• A la mode – pie served with ice cream
• Ice – to cool by adding ice or surrounding it with ice
• Cream – to beat fat and sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy. The fat content of milk
• Milch cows are female cows kept primarily for producing milk.
• Churning – can be an attachment to your KitchenAid Mixer or an old-fashioned ice cream maker that uses ice and rock salt. [d]

French Ice Cream is custard-based. Milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla, salt, and cream 20%. Scald milk in a double broiler made with hot milk, stirring constantly. Cook in a double boiler until it coats a spoon. Strain and cool before churning. Churn and freeze. Creamy velvety scoopable ice cream. [d]

Philadelphia-style vanilla. Cream, milk, and sugar—no eggs. Lighter, sometimes icier, Cleaner, and more delicate (ideal for fruit or fresh flavors or vanilla). The base is uncooked, making it faster and easier. Quick to make [chatGPT]

Food is the great connector, linking us to our ancestors through recipes, memories, traditions, and love. It evokes the warmth of a grandmother’s kitchen and the comforting aromas of something simmering on the stove, speaking a language older than words. With every bite, we remember who we are and carry those stories forward, nourishing the future with the essence of the past.

What is your favorite family food or ice cream memory? Share here using #4chionstyle #4chionfoodie

A Taste of Family History on Our Lifestyle Blog

Reference

1. 166 Ibid., p. 7; Elba Ward, Cassia Stake, Historical Records and Minutes, 1881-1904, Manuscript #LR2566 23, Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints Historical Department, Salt Lake City, Utah; B. Ward, “History of Almo, n.p.; Jake and Ida Bruesch, interviewed by AW. Dawson, Oral History #180, p. 16. Accessed here https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/ciro/hrs2n.htm?utm_source=chatgpt.com
2. World Atlas. (n.d.). 7 Old-timey general stores in Idaho. Retrieved June 14, 2025, from https://www.worldatlas.com/places/7-old-timey-general-stores-in-idaho.html
3. Visit Southern Idaho. (n.d.). Tracy General Store. Visit Southern Idaho. Retrieved June 18, 2025, from https://www.visitsouthidaho.com/adventure/tracy-general-store/
4. Wenzel, G. L. (1979). Wenzel’s menu maker (2nd ed.). John L. Wenzel and Sons. © 1979 by George L. Wenzel.FamilySearch. (n.d.).
5. Thomas Durfee—Spawning a Noble Family from Trouble and Scandal [Memory]. FamilySearch. Retrieved June 22, 2025  https://www.familysearch.org/en/tree/person/memories/27J3-NQ2
6. Winger, A. (1994). The life story of Ancil Winger: As dictated by Ancil Winger (P. Wolf & T. Wolf, Eds.). Ancil Winger Family.
7. Winger, D. (2025, June 14). Grandpa meets Grandma [Oral history recording]. Ancil Winger Family Oral History Collection.
8. FamilySearch. (2025, March 4). No title. Retrieved July 4, 2025    FamilySearch. https://www.familysearch.org/en/tree/person/memories/LB8D-H4D
9. FamilySearch. (n.d.). [Untitled memory about Magdalena Pickle (1788–1850)] [Memory]. FamilySearch. Retrieved June 22, 2025 https://www.familysearch.org/en/tree/person/memories/LBXQ-57W
10. FamilySearch. (n.d.). Thomas Durfee’s will [Digital image of historical document]. FamilySearch khttps://www.familysearch.org/en/tree/person/memories/27J3-NQ2
11. River Historical Society. (1781). Continental service payroll record for Capt. John Smith’s Company [Manuscript]. Manuscript Collection. https://fallriverhistorical.org/collections/manuscripts
12. FamilySearch. (n.d.). Thomas Durfee—Spawning a Noble Family from Trouble and Scandal Memory]. FamilySearch. Retrieved July 2, 2025
    https://www.familysearch.org/en/tree/person/memories/27J3-NQ2
13. Black Past. (Sep. 13, 2020). [Edmond Albius (1829-1880)] Retrieved Aug. 30, 2025 https://www.blackpast.org/african-american-history/edmond-albius-1829-1880/
14. Angelou, M. (1969). (pg. 25) I know why the caged bird sings. Random House.

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